This is a topic that many people are looking for. thevoltreport.com is a channel providing useful information about learning, life, digital marketing and online courses …. it will help you have an overview and solid multi-faceted knowledge . Today, thevoltreport.com would like to introduce to you How to Make a Super Fancy Frame !! by Jon Peters. Following along are instructions in the video below:
you Ive picked up this old mirror at a garage sale a few years ago and its kind of been hanging around Im finally going to take a day and make a frame for it now the reason why I bought the mirror is because it has a beveled edge I dont know if you can see that but also the mirror is not in great shape theres a lot of imperfections behind the glass because its old but thats what I like about it I think its gonna look pretty cool once I make the frame and distress the frame so it looks like an antique now the first step is going to be to remove the mirror from the frame and then I can measure it and make a sub frame okay well the good news is the mirror is out one piece unfortunately there was no nothing interesting behind it here sometimes youll find old newspaper clippings and things like that but there was nothing here so but the mirror is out and now Im going to measure the mirror and its 20 by 18 so Im going to make a sub frame with an opening thats 20 to 16 by 18 and 16 Im making the sub frame out of 3/4 inch plywood and this just happens to be cherry because it was a piece of scrap hanging around the shop now what Im doing is basically its like a face frame Im making a square and Ill use my biscuit joiner to join the frame together and Ill let that set up overnight because its almost the end of the day and then tomorrow Ill come in and make molding on the table saw and then just dress up the sub frame and again Im just calling as subframes basically a foundation so I can build up all of the decorative moldings okay well its a new day and I should add that it didnt take me all day to build the subframe yesterday it was the end of the day and I wanted to glue it up so today I could then work on it this is the plan for the frame Im about to build and youd have to imagine that this is a section of the frame cutout so youre seeing it from the I guess you would call it the end or the end grain now this piece right here represents the subframe that I just put together and the first piece of molding Im going to make is this piece right here Im going to make that out of MDF I just set the blade on the table saw for a seven degree angle can I bought my fence into five, 16ths and now Im going to rip that angle on my piece of molding and that will be the piece of molding for the inside of the frame the molding that I just made measures one inch across and since I want a quarter inch overhang to catch the mirror Im going to use scrap
piece of the plywood that measures three quarters of an inch and use that as a guide to make a line now when I go to cut my miter Ill use the outside line or Ill use that line for the outside mark of the miter cut the nice thing about having a sacrificial board on your chop saw is you can line your cut lines up with the kerf thats cut into the sacrificial board and that just makes things go a lot faster and its a lot easier well now that this piece of molding has been made and attached to the frame Im moving on to this piece right here and this measures a half of an inch by 3/8 and again Im going to make that out of MDF well now Im ready to move on to this little piece of bead molding and again Im going to use the table saw Im just changing the blade in the table saw to a bead molding cutting head this is what the cutting head looks like and if youd like to know a little bit more about how to make bead molding Ill put a link right here for the bead molding Im using popular wood and the only reason why the wood is primed is because these are scraps are cut off from a trim job I just did the next piece of molding Im going to make is this piece on the back of the frame here and this measures 2 inches by 3/4 of an inch and again Im going to make that out of MDF to make the molding for the back of the frame Ive already ripped 3/4 inch MDF to 2 inch strips and now Ive adjusted my fence to in ancient three quarters and Ive tilted the saw blade to 35 degrees when I attach this piece of molding the 2-inch piece of molding that I just cut I want a half inch reveal in the back of the frame and that allows the frame to hang very tight to the wall now theres a little trick to getting this half inch reveal where you dont have to measure I like to use a piece of half-inch plywood to prop the frame that Im working on up and what that does is as I attach the molding around the frame you can see that I have a perfect half-inch gap and so that will be my half-inch reveal with the frame flipped over you can see how theres a perfect half-inch reveal going all the way around the frame and a really nice thing about that is if you decide you want to hang the frame using the French cleat system theres more than enough room to do that well finally we get to the tricky part and maybe the most interesting part and thats this molding in the center its like a valley between the two moldings and it looks a little bit like a dental molding but its different what Im doing is Im
going to cut an angle on a piece of molding and then cross cut them in Reverse them so you have one angle going this way then going that way this way that way this way all the way around the frame again Im going to use MDF for this molding and the first step is to cut strips at an inch and 5/16 and thats the distance between these two moldings Ive already ripped the MDF to an inch and five, 16ths the next step is to raise the blade tilt the angle to seven degrees and move my fence over to five sixteenths and run the material through the saw again that will be the molding once I finished cutting all the molding I then mark the line on the molding at an inch and 5/16 went over to the chop saw and then put a line on the cutting table and now Im cutting blocks and then just putting the blocks in the channel here or the valley in the opposite order now Im anticipating a problem which is the spacing wont be perfectly even and Ill show you what my solution is for that when I get there so this is the problem the blocks are going to be heavy by about 3/16 so what Im going to do is take a few blocks and take a, 16th off of say three blocks and then just bury them in the line here and the naked eye will really never see them and then that will give me a perfect run of molding and Ill just use that same solution as I work my way around the frame these are the lines that Ive drawn on the sacrificial chop saw table are the board that is sacrificial now this centerline is an inch and 5/16 so if I want my molding to be a little bit heavy or a little bit light I can put it at either line so now since I need three pieces of molding that are a little bit light Ill just push the molding up to that one line Ill cut those three and that should be perfect and since the blocks are only 1/16 of an inch lighter than the original ones its really hard to see them but what Ill do is Ill take them out and spread them along the line in that way it would be even more difficult but Im sorry its not right okay and that looks like its going to work out fine and Ill just do the same thing as I work my way around the frame I work my way around the frame and then I numbered all the blocks and put a corresponding number on the edge of the frame now Im going to glue them in place the next step is to paint the frame but thats next week so I hope youll tune in and check that out please subscribe leave a comment like me on Facebook thanks for tuning in Ill see you next time
Jon Peters, fancy frame, antique mirror, shabby chic, frame, make, wood, woodworking
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